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SECRET AND LATENT DANGERS HIDDEN UNDERNEATH THE GLAZED COVER OF THE MODERN ORGANIC COSMETIC
University of Siena, Department of Pharmaceutical Biotechnologies, Via A.Moro 2, 53100 Siena, Italy
Corresponding author: Lorenzo Martini, M.Sc.
Our Dermatol Online. 2014; 5(4): 366-369 Date of submission: 21.06.2014 / acceptance: 17.08.2014
Amongst the principal targets the New Organic Cosmetic (and peculiarly the modern “Juice Beauty Care” based on the use of juices from fruits and polychrome herbs) heralds, there is the fact that it is advisable that the extraction must be done “naturally” from all vegetables, randomly collected and these vegetables may contain degraded chlorophyll and its derivative phylloeritrin, that is a very important photosensitizing agent, since the ripening of most fruits and some vegetables is characterized by rapid decrease of chlorophyll levels coupled with rapid increase of pigments.
This involves the presence of extreme severe photosensitising agents in natural cosmetics belonging to the category of the “make up and decorative” ones, as eye-shadows, foundations, pencils, fards aux paupiers, coloured creams and pastes.
Aims of my study is to determine how much the presence of these photosensitising agents in Organic cosmetics may damage human skin, when covered by natural maquillage products and then exposed to sun. For this purpose I have recruited 20 women in a government prison that decided voluntarily to undergo my experiments, based on the simple application of natural make up cosmetics before to have their out of cell time, during summer days at noon. Final evaluations of photosensitization have been carried out along with the clinical scoring scale drawn up by the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG).
Key words: photosensitization; phylloeritrin; organic cosmetic; ICDRG score
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Cite this article:
Martini L. Secret and latent dangers hidden underneath the glazed cover of the modern Organic Cosmetic. Our Dermatol Online. 2014; 5(4): 366-369.
Photosensitization occurs when skin (especially areas exposed to light and lacking significant protective hair, wool, or pigmentation) becomes more susceptible to ultraviolet light due to the presence of photodynamic agents. Photosensitization differs from sunburn and photodermatitis, as both of these conditions result in pathologic skin changes without the presence of a photodynamic agent. The trend of the new Organic cosmetic (and peculiarly the modern “Juice Beauty Care”) need to use manifold plants for extracting the most ample selection of natural juices that are useful as pigments in order to display eye-shadows, foundations, pencils, fards aux paupiers, coloured creams and pastes, but even for yielding biological colorants to render more attractive and delicate many kinds of cosmetics to apply onto safe skin.
The simplest and most common natural colorants allowed by the International Procedural Guidelines are Annatto (orange
derived from a shrub that grows in a number of places in the southern hemisphere) beta-Carotene (yellow to orange, that can be used for cosmetics around the world), Caramel (brown that comes from the burning of sugars like sucrose, dextrose, malt syrup, molasses; highly stable, can be used for formulating products around the world) Carmine (bright, red colorant which has a bluish shade, derived from female cochineal beetles that are collected primarily in Peru and can be used in cosmetic products around the world). Chlorophyll and Chlorophyll Cu Complexes (green colorant obtained from several evergreen plants.
Moreover, approved throughout the world, are numbered Henna(a brown dye derived from the Henna plant. It primarily comes from India and is allowed in the US for all kinds of cosmetics, in China and EU only for hair treatment, since it is specifically prohibited for use in colouring eyelashes and eyebrows due to its known ability to cause irritation.
366 © Our Dermatol Online 4.2014
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